The first trip, in 2009, happened by accident. At least it felt that way. My then-boyfriend wanted to go somewhere tropical. I wanted to go somewhere interesting, though I had no inkling of the plan he was hatching when I mentioned Hawai'i. I figured this discussion was just another of the fantasy trips we often took in our heads after watching the Travel Channel. Neither of us had passports or much money. But my boyfriend's job as a New York City public high school special education teacher had wrecked him. For the past few years, half the teachers at his school left by year's end. C. stood on the verge of quitting too. Instead, he started drinking on the train ride to work in the mornings. Then