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Chapter 11: David and Frosty's Excellent Adventure--Bicycling the Continental Divide

Written by Subject: Travel

"A bicycle ride is a flight from sadness," said James Starrs. "A bicycle is just as good company as most husbands, and when it gets old and shabby, a woman can dispose of it and get a new one without shocking the entire community," said Ann Strong. "The bicycle has done more for the emancipation of women than anything else in the world," said Susan B. Anthony.

"Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There's something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym," said Bill Nye, the science guy. Kristin Armstrong, American cyclist said, "Embrace your sweat. It is your essence and your emancipation." "Cyclists see considerably more of this beautiful world than any other class of citizens." "A good bicycle, well applied, will cure most ills this flesh is heir to," said K.K. Doty.

"Those who wish to control their lives and move beyond existence as mere clients and consumers—those people ride a bike." Wolfgang Sachs.

We faced an 18-mile winding road up Towogatee Pass at 9,550 feet. Daunting, but on a bicycle, nobody will get you up that pass other than your own will-power, your own tenacity and your own sweat.

"Let's get 'er done," said David.
"How long is it to the top?" said Tim.
"It's about 18 miles and at least four and a half hours," I said. "Oh, and we might encounter a few grizzly bears."
"Great," said David.

And so began our arduous climb up that monster pass. At the same time, we looked back to see incredible views of the Grand Tetons. Clouds took them in and out of our view, kind of like Nature's way of "hike and seek." The blue sky turned bright, then hazy, then sizzling blue again. The enormous green landscape mesmerized our eyes with contrasts beyond the scope of normal.

"To many Americans, the wilderness is merely a temporary retreat from the tensions of civilizations. To others, it is a testing place—a vanishing frontier where men and women can challenge themselves. And to a few, it is an almost holy source of a quest for self-renewal. But for every man, woman and child---the ultimate lesson that Nature teaches is simply this---humanity's fate is inextricably linked to the world at large, and to all the other creatures that live upon it."

One hour passed; about four miles under our pedals. Tim asked for a break. We drank water, enjoyed a bull session, and then, back to the bikes. Another hour passed, the big highway curled like a giant serpent through the green tundra of the high country. With each mile, something beautiful entertained our eyes: a hawk, a deer, a mountain goat, a lake, a water fall, a river, a swath of wildflowers. The clouds wafted in and out of the peaks before us.

Another hour, the Grand Tetons faded from our view, but gargantuan gray peaks poked into the sky before us. The evergreens dominated as the aspen gave way to higher altitudes. But always along the road, purple, white, orange and yellow wildflowers offered their tints for our colorful journey. And sometimes, the scent of lavender wafted into our nostrils. Gees, it makes my senses tingle with joy.

Hour four, wow, legs pounding away, and sure enough, within 30 minutes we reached the top. At that point, the eternal pull of gravity slackened. It released our quads to easier, kinder strokes on the pedals. We stopped along a wood fence to take pictures and gaze at the amazing peaks that now, didn't seem so distant. In fact, we rode our bikes right through them.

"Let's get a bunch of pic's with the afternoon sun causing some interesting shadows," said Tim.
"Yeah," said David. "I like the way the light plays on the edges of the mountains and in the valleys. Really neat and truly a visual feast. Let's make an early camp. Anything good around here?"

"Sure, about half way down the mountain, we can stop at a state campground with water, fire pits and bathrooms," I said. "Let's get some pictures with those incredible mountains behind us."
"Sure," said David. "Let's snap those pic's and coast down the mountain into a nice cozy camp site with a hot dinner. 
My legs will thank me when I hit the sack tonight."

After taking a few pictures, we jumped on our bikes for a gravity-powered free ride down the mountain. Nothing like it! As the bike breaks free from fighting the force of gravity, and releases into the pull of gravity, it also turns a crank in my mind. Pure glee! Pure joy! Pure fun! Pure happiness!
Henry Beeching said it best: Going Down Hill ????????

A Boy's Bicycle Song

With lifted feet, hands still, I am poised, and down the hill Dart, with heedful mind; The air goes by in a wind.
Swifter and yet more swift, Till the heart with a mighty lift Makes the lungs laugh, the throat cry:— "O bird, see; see, bird, I fly.

"Is this, is this your joy? O bird, then I, though a boy, For a golden moment share Your feathery life in air!"
Say, heart, is there aught like this In a world that is full of bliss? 'Tis more than skating, bound Steel-shod to the level ground.

Speed slackens now, I float Awhile in my airy boat; Till, when the wheels scarce crawl, My feet to the pedals fall.
Alas, that the longest hill Must end in a vale; but still, Who climbs with toil, where-so-ever, Shall find wings waiting there.

At camp, we pitched the tents. Blew up the air mattresses. Prepared the sleeping bags and kept the skeeters at bay. Pasta prima vera tasted, oh so good, that night over the one burner stoves. Hot chocolate: heavenly! Conversation: filled with wonder around the campfire.

David and Frosty's Excellent Adventure: Bicycling the Continental Divide, Canada to Mexico, the photograph shows David and Tim at the top of Towogatee Pass.

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