In the summer of 2021, Sean Sherman, a forty-eight-year-old Oglala Lakota chef, opened a restaurant called Owamni, in Minneapolis. Nearly overnight, it became the most prominent example of Indigenous American cuisine in the United States. Every dish is made without wheat flour, dairy, cane sugar, black pepper, or any other ingredient introduced to this continent after Europeans arrived. Sherman describes the food as "decolonized"; his business partner and Owamni's co-owner, Dana Thompson, calls it "ironically foreign." In June, the James Beard Foundation named Owamni the best new restaurant in the United States. One evening in May, I met Sherman outside Owamni, which is situated in a park on the Mississippi River. Across the street, water plummeted fifty feet down St. Anthony Falls. The area was once the site of a Dakota village known as Owamniyomni?"the place of falling, swirling water. Sherman pulled out his phone and showed me an eighteenth-century drawing depicting